In a perfect world, fine dining would mean a well-prepared meal enjoyed at a leisurely pace. The Edgewater Hotel’s Admiralty Room invites guests to experience exactly that; an opportunity to savor exquisite cuisine in a setting far from the frenetic fast-food world.

Reminiscent of fine dining establishments that flourished during the heyday of Madison’s supper clubs, the Admiralty Room offers gourmet food fare served in a formal dining room overlooking Lake Mendota. Located five floors above the lake, the dining room provides a bird’s eye view of Picnic Point below as well as a panoramic look at the lake’s northern shore directly across. And on a clear evening, you can enjoy a magnificent sunset.

This upscale restaurant serves tempting entrees in an elegant setting that boasts a rich history and impeccable reputation going back more than half a century. Maitre d’ David Martineau makes sure the Admiralty Room lives up to its reputation while playing the role of historian as well.

Martineau came on board in 1967 as sous-chef. A year-and-a-half later, he moved to the dining room where he has been maitre d’ for nearly 40 years. “In 1949 when the dining room opened, Lucien Robert was the original chef,” said Martineau. “He married a Madison lady and moved to Boston to open a restaurant. He left because he felt Madison was not ready for fine French food. Recently, after 30 years, the elegant Maison Robert closed.

A chat with Martineau provides a fasci¬nating glimpse into a slice of Madison history. “Before the war (WWII), the five Quisling brothers hired J.H. Fin-dorff and Sons to begin construction of the hotel. Construction was halted due to the hotel’s non-essential status,” said Martineau. Built in a number of stages, The Edgewater was finally completed in 1948 when its 103 rooms opened.

“The Edgewater has been a family-owned hotel over the years,” said Martineau. “It was purchased from the Quislings in the early 1970’s by Austin Faulkner who was formerly employed by Chicago’s former Drake Hotel. Today, his son, Austin Scott Faulkner, owns the business.”

“When the restaurant first opened, Ruth Solie, a prominent decorator, and Jane Quisling, a Chicago girl and wife of Abraham Quisling, designed the interior,” said Martineau. “Jane knew the owners of the Drake Hotel, and today, the Admiralty Room still reflects its influence. We still own the glassware frosted with the basket design reminiscent of the Drake’s.” Also similar to the Drake Hotel, the Admiralty Room’s sound-absorbing ceiling tiles make it a quieter place to dine. “We discontinued finger bowls and face cloths,” said Martineau, who admitted they were a bit stilted and diners often didn’t quite know what to do with them.

In the early days, ladies wore hats and gloves and gentlemen wore suits. Today the dining room is more relaxed, and coats and ties are not required. However, many choose the Admiralty Room to celebrate a special occasion, offering a great opportunity to dress for a night on the town.

While the restaurant is more casual, Martineau trains his staff to understand the small things that create elegance. “We take the ladies’ purses, pull out their chairs, and help with packages,” he said. “Diners are not rushed. People are in such a hurry, wolfing down their meal to get on to the next event.” That’s not the style at the Admiralty Room. Also in keeping with formal supper club dining, the staff is trained to do flambé work tableside, an entertaining and dramatic effect made possible because there is no rush.

“The original menu makes me laugh,” recalled Martineau. “Today, we can’t purchase food for the prices on that menu.” Imagine Lobster Thermidor for $3.65, Broiled African Lobster Tail with Drawn Butter for $3.85, or Prime Roast of Beef Au Jus for $3.95 followed by Hot Apple Pie with Butter Sauce for 40 cents, and 55 cent cocktails. That’s the way it was in the first dining room, formerly the Rigadoon Room.

Today, executive chef Glen Timmcke’s menu features a wide variety of tempting entrees including the Admiralty’s signature Beef Wellington and Steak Diana. Steak Diana—a combination of beef tenderloin sautéed with red onions, tomatoes, mushrooms, garlic and herbs sauce bordelaise, Dijon mustard, red wine, and brandy—is prepared tableside. Seven elegant desserts are available, but Cherries Jubilee and Bananas Foster, both flambéed, are particular favorites. “Our Bananas Foster is comparable toBrennan’s of New Orleans,” said Martineau. “We also purchase seasonal organic produce from the farmers at the market,” he noted.

Martineau’s passion for food preparation and fine dining makes him a natural for his position at the Admiralty Room and his longevity reflects his talent. His fasci¬nation with good food surfaced when he was a pre-teen growing up in Minnesota. “My grandfather owned a store where a small restaurant rented part of the build¬ing. I loved cooking with the women and I also learned to bake there,” he said. Martineau attended UW’s Gordon Commons cooking school and MATC. For many years, he taught gourmet cooking classes, cake decorating, and baking at MATC. He has worked as a consultant as well.

Curator of the restaurant’s “Wall of Fame,” Martineau points out hundreds of famous celebrities who stayed at The Edgewater Hotel and dined in the Admiralty room. Windowless walls feature autographed photos of glitterati who enjoyed a taste of Madison ala the Admiralty Room. Martineau also maintains an album chronicling visits of such stars as Helen Hayes, Ginger Rogers, Marcelle Marceau, Nehru and Ghandi,Agnes Moorehead, Orson Wells, Spiderman the famous climber AKA Alain Robert, Peter, Paul, and Mary, and Harry Connick, Jr. just to mention a few. “I update the book and photo collection every January,” said Martineau. So nostalgically impressive is the photo display, it’s worth a trip just to see it.

Martineau goes to extremes to please his clientele. “I’ve had many interesting experiences over the years,” he said recalling a time when he delivered a live rabbit to a customer’s table to surprise a child on his birthday.

While he’s yet to pull a rabbit out of a hat, Martineau and his staff always perform the special magic that transports diners to another time when life was not so rushed; when cuisine and ambience reflected civility, grace, and elegance.