Quivey’s Grove
by admin on 03/09/11 at 2:28 pm
As featured in Madison Originals Magazine November 2009
For nearly 30 years, Quivey’s Grove has ranked high among Madison’s favorite dining destinations. The old Italianate fieldstone mansion, reflecting a nostalgic slice of local history, inspires a myriad of stories going all the way back to 1855 when John Mann came to Madison from New York. Mann purchased Quivey’s present location where he built the stone mansion and stable while running a successful livery business.
“John traded timber from his property for stones from the hillside across the road to build the stone house. You can still see a path where the excavation in the quarry leaves off,” says Craig Kuenning, co-owner of Quivey’s Grove. In 1876, Mann sold the property to J.C. Latham who later sold it to Hal Huddlestone. In 1948, William Waskow purchased the property. “He lived here until 1979, raising dogs in an attached kennel, and horses in the stable,” Craig explains.
Fitchburg’s first inn, Quivey’s Inn, owned by John Quivey, was enjoying its heyday when the Mann estate was built. Inspired by the historic inn as well as their restaurant’s location, nestled in a black walnut grove, Joe Garton and his wife, Deirdre, chose the name “Quivey’s Grove” when they opened the restaurant in 1979.
There are several reasons for Quivey’s Grove’s longstanding success. Authenticity comes to mind immediately when you enter the Stable or Stone House. Nothing is contrived. The original buildings are still filled with old-fashioned country charm, and remain unchanged except for small additions and improvements. The entryway and main bar room were added on to the original stone stable in 1989. The 20-inch-thick stone walls and the structural hand-hewn beams on the first floor of the Stable are original. Lights are handcrafted reproductions of early 19th century Yankee fixtures. The stairs are newly built, and the tables, some made from old wagon wheels, were crafted by Wisconsin woodworkers. Both buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Dining in the Stone House imparts a sense that families once lived there. In fact, occasionally a guest who once called it “home” mentions they are dining in a room that was their former bedroom. Six rooms are individually decorated and named to fit their décors such as “Grandmother’s Garden” or the “Valentine Room,” and they make cozy dining spaces. The unstained hemlock floors, as well as the walnut newel post and banister, are original. The kitchen entrance and bathrooms are new. This year, a small patio was added in front of the Stone House. Equipped with teak tables, the patio can accommodate a small private party.
“What really makes this restaurant work is the staff,” says Craig, who has been on board since the restaurant’s inception. “Chef Paul Hellenbrand and Lynn Larue, our hostess, have been here since day one. The staff is dedicated, and they make it function. We all love what we do, and we’re here for the long haul. We make sure Quivey’s stays in good shape, and we do most of the work ourselves, including refinishing the original floors in the Stable, and painting the buildings,” says Craig, who was part of the construction crew when Joe Garton and Deirdre transformed the property into a restaurant.Locate 2””
“The manager gave notice he was leaving after opening night,” recalls Craig, who at first worked in the kitchen as head chef, and after a year-and-a-half, was promoted to manager. He also helped build the tunnel in 1980, a reflection of the many hats he wears.
The authenticity of the old stone building is equaled by that of the food prepared and served. With the exception of some seasonal changes and occasional new culinary creations, the menu remains constant. “We make small changes in our traditional Stone House menu four or five times a year, making them lighter in the summer and more hearty in the winter. If it works, don’t mess with it,” says Craig.
While Craig keeps his eye on food trends, he also stays ahead of the curve. “We watch how items come and go, but we don’t jump on trends. It’s slow and steady. For example, muffins are all the rage, but we’ve had them here for years. Braised Lamb shanks are a hot item today. We’ve always had them,” Craig smiles.
Quivey’s kitchen crew has mastered the art of creating interesting flavors and integrating time-tested classic tastes and combinations. The Stone House menu states, “Preparing the wholesome food of our forebears requires sweet butter, fresh potatoes, and heavy cream.” That is another reason diners return again and again. “Our time-tested recipes have worked and always will,” says Craig.
The Stone House menu offers fine dining with six appetizers, including longtime favorite “Madison Mushrooms,” mushrooms stuffed with ham, and served with Madeira cream sauce. There are nine main course choices, all named for famous individuals or events with Wisconsin connections. A particular favorite, Popover Glover, features a popover filled with chicken and fresh mushrooms in a cream sauce served over rice.
The Stable Grill offers more casual dining with separate lunch and dinner menus, including a good variety of salads and sandwiches as well as several entrées. Paddock picnics are designed for guests who want to enjoy Quivey’s beautiful grassy outdoor area. “It’s great for families. There are games in the yard; croquet, washer toss, and Bocce ball. The kids can run around, parents can relax,” says Craig.
Dinner Baskets (with baby back ribs, crispy fried chicken, chicken and ribs, fresh lake perch, and fresh whitefish), chicken or salmon salad, and sandwich baskets (including the Fitchburger, grilled portabella mushrooms, perch, barbecue pork, grilled chicken breast, and bratwurst) comprise some of the Paddock Picnics menu. The Paddock is open for dining Monday through Thursday. On Friday, there’s a fish fry in the Stable Grill as well as an Outdoor Bar and Fish Fry in the Paddock.
Save room for dessert! There are always four choices including a seasonal fruit crisp or cobbler, turtle pie made with Bavarian chocolate cream over caramel and pecans, and chocolate steamed pudding, a traditional English rich cake served with Craig’s grandmother’s family-favorite sauce. “Our turtle pie has been our signature dessert, and we’ve been making it since we opened,” says Craig.
An impressive wine list and more than a dozen Wisconsin beer choices are among the “potent potables” to pair with your meal.
Quivey’s is a traditionally popular venue for wedding parties. “Joe had great foresight when he wrote the liquor license for the entire property,” says Craig. “That enables us to do weddings outside and to feature our Beer Fest in the fall. Nothing gives me more joy than seeing guests enjoying the ambience of our entireplace,” beams Craig. From the beginning, Craig has taken personal ownership in the restaurant, one more reason Quivey’s has remained so popular.
