Delaney’s Charcoal Steaks Going Strong at 35
by Lisa Lathrop on 06/14/10 at 3:12 pm
As featured in the November 2008 issue of Madison Originals Magazine
If Jim Delaney had stayed in the business of selling gasoline from his Texaco station on Park Street over 35 years ago, steakhouse history in Madison would have been considerably different. Instead, after owning the service station for 7 1/2 years and as Jim puts it, “spending too much time at Namio’s,” a Madison restaurant formerly located on Park Street, he decided that the restaurant business looked appealing.
“Owning a restaurant and a service station are very similar as you are offering a product and service to the public,” Jim explains. Jim took a correspondence class on restaurant and hotel management before opening Delaney’s. How did he determine the genre of the restaurant? “Steakhouses are the wingtip of the restaurant business. A good-quality house will be around for a long time,” Jim expresses.
Jim made the right choice because this year Delaney’s is celebrating 35 years. Originally located on Odana Road in the former Trading Post building, in November, 1973, Jim decided to relocate. “There wasn’t much out here back in 1973, maybe six or seven buildings. This lot was available, and there wasn’t a road next door like there is now; it was grassland. We decided to build here because I liked the area, and knew it was going to be a good location for business.”
Jim built Delaney’s reputation by serving quality USDA Black Angus, prime, and choice steaks that are wet aged 21 to 28 days and dry aged up to five days on the premises. “It makes for a good steak.” Add the special Delaney’s seasoning which Jim says is a secret mix of ingredients, which he can’t divulge, for even more flavor. Served on hot sizzler plates, the steaks are sizzling as they are carried from the kitchen and placed in front of hungry guests. Add an order of Delaney’s famous onion rings for the perfect meal.
Steaks aren’t the only thing that Delaney’s serves. Nightly seafood fresh catch offerings are chosen from 15 different options which the chefs rotate depending on the availability of the fish. There is also a tank with live Maine lobsters near the kitchen for the ultimate in freshness. Delaney’s Seafood Up special features king crab, snow crab, shrimp, and mussels served in a large martini glass, which is large enough to feed four to six people. For a unique appetizer, try the ostrich. Jim explains that they wanted to try something new and since they added it to the appetizer menu, it’s been very successful.
Jim’s son, Dan, began working at the restaurant on the table bussing staff in 1992 when he was 16 years old. Now the general manager, Dan is responsible for payroll, scheduling, menu input, daily operations, wine tasting, and purchasing. Delaney’s offers over 20 wines by the glass and has a large selection of wine by the bottle, many of which can’t be purchased in liquor stores. A large cooler in the bar displays many of the wines. Delaney’s offers wine dinners, a five-course dinner with a wine pairing for each course, on a regular basis.
The team of chefs and kitchen staff has a long history of working together. “We figure we have a combined total of 100 years of working here at Delaney’s. We come here to cook and stay because we like the creativity that we are allowed here,” explains Chef Jerry, who has worked at Delaney’s since 1997. Chef Scott started as the kitchen manager in 1986, and Chef Jim began in 2005. “Jim and Dan give us their backing and allow us to be creative in the kitchen,” says Chef Jerry as he preps grilled vegetables for the evening’s guests. Tim Aikins, the bar manager, has worked at Delaney’s for 12 years serving wine and other libations. Aikins also serves up the Happy Hour Monday through Thursday from 4:00-6:30 p.m. Serving great food is only one part of the equation of running a successful restaurant. Offering great service plays a large role in bringing customers back through the door again and again. “We have server trainers who have been here quite awhile. There is a series of tests that servers are required to take, an orientation, beverages, main course, desserts, etc., so that they know how everything is prepared,” Dan relays. Delaney’s uses a service team, which is a two-person team. The front server is the ambassador to the guest and has full knowledge of the history of the restaurant, knows the wine list and the menu, problem solves when needed, and properly executes the meal and wine. The back server delivers the food, preps the salads, and ensures correct placement of the food when it’s delivered. “One can’t break down because the team falls apart,” explains Dan. “We want to make sure the food is delivered to the table in a timely manner. In any given dining experience, there are five front and back servers and two dining assistants to help.”
The restaurant is divided into small rooms with five or six tables in each to provide an intimate dining experience. Custom-made Tiffany lamps hang from the ceiling, and the walls are decorated with black and white photos of old Madison scenes. Some rooms also have windows to bring in natural light.
Planning a meeting? Delaney’s meeting room is large enough to accommodate 40 people. “With enough notice, we can personalize the menu for groups. If there is a special salad, entrée, dessert, or appetizer that your group would like that isn’t on our menu, we can prepare it for you,” says Dan. Many business groups hold their monthly meetings at Delaney’s as the room is equipped with projection screen. Wedding rehearsal dinners, birthday parties, holiday parties, and other functions are perfect for this room as it has a separate bar.