Ella’s Deli
by Lisa Lathrop on 04/05/10 at 3:33 pm
As Featured in the May 2007 Issue of Madison Originals Magazine.
“Don’t move,” commanded an excited dad as he aimed his digital camera at his three-year-old daughter who was perched on the back of a shiny carousel camel. The camel and a huge space age robot, just a step inside Ella’s Deli & Ice Cream Parlor’s entrance, welcome visitors into a fantasyland providing a sumptuous feast for the eyes and appetite. Amidst the whirring and buzzing of animated and mechanical displays, children and children-at-heart can enjoy delicious homemade food while heroes such as Spiderman, Batman, Captain America, and Mighty Mouse fly overhead.
Owner Ken Balkin created the unique décor based on his vision of a restaurant with a circus ambience reminiscent of days-gone-by. In 1976, when Ken and his wife, Judy, opened Ella’s on East Washington Avenue, there were no mechanical features. “Popular at the time, ferns and plants adorned the windows. There were many hanging plants and the look was fresh and pretty,” reflected Ken. But a visit to Circus World Museum inspired Ken’s inner child. “While at Circus World Museum, Judy and I met a man who had great interest in fairgrounds architecture.” There began Ken’s fascination with clowns, carousels, and whimsical characters.
“Judy and I built Ella’s based on the reputation of our family-owned-and-operated Ella’s Deli on State Street.” The State Street kosher style deli was originally owned and operated by Ella Hirschfeld. In the early sixties, Ken’s family purchased the business from Hirschfeld, retained the name, and operated the deli for many years. The now-closed Ella’s enjoyed great popularity, and became something of a dining icon in downtown Madison.
“Based on that reputation, Judy and I were confident our East Washington Avenue deli would succeed,” Ken said. The property that was to become the new Ella’s was then a mobile home business. “It was a small building with a large parking lot. We kept two walls of the original building, but 80 percent of the restaurant is new construction. It was a year-and-a-half-long project; we designed as we went, and it was intense.”
With each passing year, Ken incorporated more and more characters into the fantasy family that delights and entertains children of all ages. Small circus trains chug; miniature carousels go around; and Dumbo, Popeye’s Olive Oil, airplanes, and spaceships buzz about the ceiling above. All this overhead activity could require an air traffic controller. “We do have a full-time maintenance man to run this complicated network,” said Ken, who created most of the characters and displays. All of this true art, done with paint, papier-mâché, and metal, makes Ella’s interior stunningly unique.
“Things have evolved here. We are always adding; providing change.” Ken recalled that in the beginning he had purchased some little cloth clowns encased in glass bubbles. “At the time, I stacked them in a pyramid and they were huge sellers. Today, one of those original clowns rides overhead on a cable.”
Ken’s creative and artistic prowess is reflected in the large display case inside Ella’s entrance. Filled with tiny carousels, the area showcases Ken’s imagination and penchant for detail. His latest project, an enchanting castle created with impeccable detail, provides an invitation to enter Ella’s magic kingdom.
Twenty years ago, Ken realized an ultimate fantasy when he located and purchased a Parker carousel. Built in 1927 in Kansas, the carousel is one of fewer than 75 known original carousels in the United States. Formerly operating in a park in New York, the carousel was dismantled and stored when the park closed. Heat and moisture caused significant damage, and restoration took months. “When we purchased the carousel, I knew nothing about them. I’ve now become an expert on wood carousels,” Ken said while explaining that a carousel with a pedigree such as Ella’s is not a merry-go-round.
During the winter months the steeds get a makeover. “Weather takes a toll and the horses need to be sanded, refinished, and painted.” But when spring comes, the beautiful horses are raring to prance to the music of the band organ. Tokens purchased for 75 cents buy a generous ride. What can be more magical than that?
Magic aside, Ella’s is all about food. Named “Best Deli” by Madison Magazine, Ella’s boasts a 20-page deli, a 12-page dessert, and a special two-page entertaining kids’ menu. Even the tables provide entertainment. Heavy glass-topped oak tables display landscapes, collections, scenes, trains that go around, and interactive games.
To start, you can order one of Ella’s famous homemade soups including matzo ball, sweet and sour cabbage, or chili. “People are often not aware of how much is made on-site,” Ken explained. “When we make soup, we load up a huge pot with chicken, onions, and carrots. We also roast our roasts here, and make dozens of pies and desserts. We bake rolls twice a day, at 8:00 in the morning and 2:00 in the afternoon, to ensure freshness.”
Featuring Jewish ethnic cuisine, Ella’s offers a lean corned beef sandwich piled high on fresh rye bread, and a corned beef Reuben. There’s also a vegetarian page on the menu. Save room for dessert, such as a nut-topped sundae or the signature Ella’s #1, a grilled pound cake hot fudge sundae. “We make our own vanilla and chocolate custard. All the other flavors are made by the Chocolate Shoppe, with whom we have enjoyed a 30-year business relationship.”
“The biggest recent change to our menu came nearly two years ago when we added wine and bottled beer,” stated Ken. While not the main attraction, they are nice enhancements for many diners.
As you leave, near the cash register there is an old fashioned candy store. Sweet treats such as candy buttons (the little round multi-colored dots that you peel off a strip of paper) take you back to your childhood. Irresistible to kids, they are a novelty to the fruit roll set.
Tucked away in a corner near the ice cream case, a pony with a real leather saddle gives a lengthy ride for 10 cents. Spotted by my four-year-old grandson who enjoyed a canter, the steed transported my son, now a dad, back to his childhood. He recalled riding an identical pony outside a supermarket when he visited his grandmother 35 years ago. “Isn’t it sad that today’s kids don’t often experience simple things that were so much fun?” he said. Ella’s offers an opportunity to enjoy those very things; to escape for a time while enjoying a tasty meal.
